Well, it is changeable weather here on Mull with rain, extreme wind, interspersed with rain squalls or downpours. For some grim, for me exciting, dark and brooding, and it makes me really feel alive to be in the centre of it all. So I can safely say with us coming into March that I have not only survived my first Mull winter, but have thoroughly enjoyed it.
Calgary Beach
But is has not all been harsh weather over January and February, there has in fact been some stunning days which allowed for swimming on Calgary Beach, and a snow clad climb up to the summit of Ben Cruachan - more on these below.
10th February - Calgary Beach
The 10th saw Claire in the water at Calgary, which can be found on the west side of the northern part of the Isle of Mull. It’s a fantastic location and out of season only sees locals dog walking, swimming, or running the adjacent peninsulas.
It is a wide crescent shaped beach sheltered from the open waters of the Irish Sea, sandy bottomed, with no real currents, and gently sloping. It’s a fine place in which to outdoor swim and practice it. A short grassy walk from the car park. You can also surf but suspect that being more the case when the weather wild.
Climbing Ben Cruachan with its peak in snow - 12th February
Two days later on the way to Killin and Hamilton we stopped near Lochawe, parking up on the Pass of Brander near the Cruachan hydro electric plant and right by the Falls of Cruachan train station where access to Cruachan starts.
Beneath the railway line at the Falls of Cruachan station
We set off through forest clinging to the very steep hillsides of Loch Awe to then reach the access road for the Cruachan dam that feeds the hydro electric plant.
From the dam it’s a sharp left up a river gully to take you to a col beneath the summit. It started with grassland which then became covered with wintery snow and ice which we worked our way up carefully, not armed with crampons or ice axes.
The snow section to the Col was hard going and yet not cold and without wind, with our eventually reaching the col (Bealach an Lochaline) about two and a quarter hours into the walk.
Bealach an Lochain
From the col/bealach it’s a steep climb up a rocky scree ladden route to the summit, except in this case the first couple of hundred metres could be seen, the rest hidden in deep snow, some of which scoured by wind into a smooth treacherous surface. On this stretch the steep wind would hit us from the west edge of the ridge at a brutish rate forcing us to keep away from the edge for safety.
The weather report had the ambient temperature at minus four degrees centigrade, and a wind chill of minus fourteen. And that we felt was correct. We ran the risk of being knocked over and becoming dangerously cold, and dealt with this via proper gear, gloves, a hat, and a balaclava. It was tough going indeed on the snow on what is a steep climb. Despite the gear we did have a spell of cold fingers due to the wind chill.
It was worth the effort for the view of the surrounding landscape and ridges, and it was quiet, stunningly quiet with no wind on the summit.
At Ben Cruachan summit with Loch Awe behind
Looking from the summit across the ridge linking Ben Cruachan to Stob Daimh
Cruachan Reservoir and Loch Awe
We had the Munro all to ourselves having only seen two Drax workers in a vehicle atop the dam. It was magical just Claire and I together.
Heading down from the summit back to the col was going to be tricky as we needed to navigate a deep snow covered rocky ridge with a strong wind and our weight behind us in our rucksacks. The snow was smooth in places from the wind and dangerous to walk on, so we made use of Claire’s walking poles which were vital for testing snow and carrying our weight where we had to step down from rocks.
It was slow and arduous but worthwhile for the views. On making it safely down to the col, we could then start the snow covered grassland part of the climb running alongside the river in the clough (Coire Dearg) back down to the reservoir track.
We had to be careful due to the ice which had formed on the path, which was also obscured by snow in a number of places. It was safer to keep off the path and walk on the snow covered grassland even if it was not the most direct route. It took a short while before we reached the path out of the snow and enjoyed the easier walking alongside the river.
From the track we retraced our steps back to the train station with the walk taking 6 hours in all. The route we took down after the dam followed the official path, whereas we’d taken a non-official route when climbing up to the track and dam. It was tough going due to heavy erosion, probably man made and natural and involved clambering down a number of stepped drops through a forest, hanging off and using trees.
Despite this final effort we were not too tired as we took our gear off and began the drive to Killin.
Feeding a very inquisitive and hungry Robin Red Breast by the parked campervan